Updated by Bobby
Updated on September 20th, 2021
Updated links to products and double-checked for accuracy. Made minor changes to article formatting.
In this build guide we're going to look at some decent and recommendable Stratocaster bridge upgrades for a few different Stratocaster guitars.
These models span both Fender and Squier brands and, generally speaking, are compatible with each bridge mentioned (we'll provide some detailed information about measuring below). Keep in mind, these bridges may not be considered upgrades for nicer Fender Stratocaster models, such as the American or Signature Strat series.
We're looking at guitars that stay in the mid to lower price ranges, which almost always means that the bridge they ship with will be some kind of Fender stock part.
Fender brand is different than Fender "stock." Flickr Commons Image via Anders Ljungberg
They're usually not terrible, but they're not great either. Saddles and trem bar feel loose, the block is light and tuning stability is a major toss-up. Once you start getting into larger price discrepancies, you'll see why the difference is so significant. As far as Stratocaster upgrades are concerned, the tremolo bridge is the second most common swap after the pickups.
Quickly, here's a listing and table of contents with everything I'll cover.
Best Stratocaster Bridge Upgrades (top 3 picks)
Bridge | Title | Rated | Browse |
|---|---|---|---|
 | Fender American Series Bridge (two-point pivot) | n/a | |
 | Fender Vintage '62 Reissue Bridge (six-screw setup) | n/a | |
 | Callaham Vintage S Model Bridge (six-screw setup) | n/a |
Benefits of a Stratocaster Bridge Upgrade
First, I don't want to over-sell the benefits of a bridge upgrade for any guitar, particularly as it relates to tone. It's fair to say that improving a Stratocaster's bridge has less to do with tone and far more to do with functionality and overall value. When a Strat bridge is upgraded, functionality is improved in several areas, but primarily the following two:
- Tuning stability
- Tremolo responsiveness
A nicer bridge will usually help your Strat stay in tune, particularly in regards to using the tremolo bar. Combining a cheap bridge with any tremolo use, that isn't extremely gentle, almost always ends in tuning headaches.
For those who are heavy trem users, a bridge upgrade has more immediate and practical benefits.
Stratocasters that Can Benefit from This Upgrade
While there are a lot of different models we could plug into this upgrade, I've singled out a few Stratocasters that I believe are uniquely good candidates for a bridge swap. They include the following:
Again, this is not to say that you can't get along with the bridges that ship with these guitars. You certainly can in plenty of contexts. However, if you want to upgrade a Stratocaster bridge, these are a few of the models that typically come with the low-quality chrome-style bridges that are cheap enough to make an upgrade beneficial.
Bridges Recommended for Upgrading
We need to identify bridges that will meet a couple criteria.
- The bridge should be a major quality increase over its predecessor
- The bridge should fit in its parent guitar
These points are self-evident, particularly the second one. Note that the bridges I'm mentioning here should all fit in the Stratocasters I've listed. At worst, you might need to do a little modding of the original bridge cutout in the Strat's body. In most cases, even that won't be necessary.
The types of Stratocaster bridges we'll be dealing with can be broken down into two categories:
- Two-Point Pivot American-Style Bridges
- Six-Screw Vintage-Style Bridges
We'll get into more detail about the differences between the two in the upcoming paragraphs.
The bigger issue right now is figuring out which bridges meet a high quality standard and can serve as an actual upgrade over what might already be on your guitar.
Unfortunately, Stratocaster guitar bridges are notoriously cheap.
Take a look at this screen grab from Amazon. It's just a 6-saddle hardtail (no tremolo), but still, extremely cheap.
Chrome hardtail, 6-saddle bridge made by Fender.
I'm not allowed to show pricing from Amazon (since I'm an associate), but I'd advise you to checkout the price of this product yourself. Moreover, just browse around some of the replacement bridges. You'll notice that a lot of them are dirt cheap. Every week I buy two jugs of Orange Juice for my kids and those cost significantly more than this bridge.
My advice would be to avoid bridges like this.
Even the full Fender Vintage-Style tremolo, the one that ships with the Standard Stratocaster, is on the cheap side. Try four jugs of orange juice.
If you look on the product page for Fender's Standard Stratocaster, you'll notice that this is the same bridge the guitar ships with.
This is likely the same, or at least comparable, in quality to what you're getting with the Fender Standard models.
While it's hard to say conclusively what kind of bridge is going into each Stratocaster model, my guess is that with most Squier Strats you're getting something similar to these two bridges, if not slightly cheaper since you've got to take into account retail markup.
What bridges should we target if we want a significant upgrade that's worth our time and money?
Generally, there are three I would recommend. Two are available on Amazon and one is from a boutique company called Callaham.
1. The Fender American Series Bridge Kit (two-pivot version)
Everything in this kit is steel and just feels really heavy compared to the lower-priced bridges. I also really like the two thick pivot screws that make the tremolo bar a lot more sturdy and less-likely to cause tuning issues.
This is similar (exact in some cases) to the models used in many of the American Stratocasters, which are some of Fender's most expensive guitars.
For any guitar in the Standard Strat line or lower, this bridge upgrade is likely a significant bump in overall quality.
Six-Screw to Two-Point Conversion: Compatibility Issue?
You'll notice in this particular bridge that instead of having the six-screw vintage style setup, you've got two larger screws going into bushings. The most ideal situation if going from an existing two-point pivot bridge to this one.
In other words, a one-for-one upgrade. Two-point to two-point.
But is it possible to upgrade a six-screw vintage bridge to the two-point pivot?
It depends.
Measuring Considerations
This particular upgrade can be problematic depending on the nuance of your existing parts. I'll reference Matt Wilder, a GC reader who offered this advice via the comments section below:
The only time it will work is if your previous 6 screw bridge has the vintage correct 2 7/32″ mount spacing, as the center to center distance between trem posts on a US made Fender Standard Stratocaster is in fact 2 7/32″. Many are much more likely to have a Strat with a 2 1/16″ mount vintage style bridge. If these owners chose to follow this conversion advice blind, they’d end up with a new bridge that did not fit, and a guitar in need of repair. You simply need to measure, and know the measurements of the replacement part. There is no replacement or substitution to be allowed for these concepts when modifying guitars if you want to achieve ultimate success; measure, and research.
Here are some more opinions on it from the Strat-Talk forum.
I would also advise checking Callaham's bridge compatibility page.
2. Factory '62 Reissue Tremolo Bridge (6-screw vintage-style)
The Fender '62 Stratocaster was a four-figure purchase, no matter how you sliced it.
This bridge is essentially a factory replica of the one that shipped with that guitar, which was solid steel and a fantastic aspect of that instrument. You'll need to measure for a 2-3/16" mounting space, or consider other sizes if that measurement doesn't fit your existing guitar.
More on Measurements
I'd absolutely recommend measuring closely first. Here are some additional measurements you may come across (courtesy of Matt Wilder in the comments section) either for your existing guitar or the bridge you are seeking to install:
- 2 7/32″ screw mounts, 2 7/32″ string spacing (original wide spacing as found on vintage Strats, also found on many Fender reissues of period specific vintage guitars)
- 2 7/32″ screw mounts, 2 1/16″ string spacing (as found on some early made in Mexico Fender Standard Stratocasters and others)
- 2 1/16″ screw mounts, 2 1/16″ string spacing (known as modern, or narrow spacing, and what is commonly found on MIM Standard Strats, Squier VM, and other examples. 2 1/16″ is also the same string spacing as found on MIA Fender Strats with two point tremolos, and just about any other Stratocaster that isn’t a vintage reissue of some type as made by Fender)
Assuming you're upgrading a six-screw bridge to the six-screw reissue, you need to take these measurements into consideration and make sure you get a new bridge that matches your existing bridge's dimensions.
Assuming you're upgrading a six-screw bridge to the six-screw reissue, you need to take these measurements into consideration and make sure you get a new bridge that matches your existing bridge's dimensions.
Other Features
One feature I really like is that the trem bar drops into the block at an angle, instead of straight down.
You can see the tremolo bar drops into the block at an angle instead of straight down like cheaper bridge trem systems. Image via Nathan Sink's YouTube Channel
The block also feels solid and heavy, unlike some of the Kmise and Wilkinson bridges, which I wouldn't recommend.
Note that the saddles are also stamped with the Fender logo, which adds to the authenticity of the part and overall value. Considering the solid quality and decent price point, this is my favorite Stratocaster bridge upgrade.
The video below from JandW Music takes you through the installation process of a vintage-style Stratocaster bridge, which would apply to the '62 reissue version as well.
You can see on the Fender Standard Stratocaster that the '62 reissue bridge would fit just like the stock version that's already there:
The stock bridge on the Standard Stratocaster uses the same six-screw construction, making the '62 reissue an easy swap.
Unlike the two-point American Bridge, this swap should be straight forward and shouldn't require any additional drilling or modding.
Again, it's my favorite option of this list.
3. Callaham Replacement Bridges
Though a relatively small company, Callaham is widely recognized as one of the industry leaders in replacement guitar parts, particularly in regards to Fender and Fender-style guitar models. They also have a lot of Gibson and Bigsby replacement parts.
Their six-screw vintage-style bridge is similar to the '62 reissue in quality, though it's made in the United States (the '62 is made in Mexico) in Winchester Virginia, just about 45 minutes from where I live.
For Stratocaster bridge upgrades, I'd recommend any of the Strat bridges on this page, which distinguishes between Mexican, S and V/N model Strats.
Callaham's Stratocaster Bridge replacement page.
Just like the '62 reissue bridge, these models use a six-screw system that can easily replace most stock vintage-style bridges on Fender and Squier Stratocasters. Callaham has separate pages for American-style bridges with the two-pivot system. Though again, I'd reference the measurement concerns cited earlier.
- Callaham's Product Catalog
- American Standard Upgrades
- American Deluxe Upgrades
- Bridge Compatibility Section
While they're a bit pricier than the Fender American and '62 reissue bridges, they're a reliable product, from a hands-on company that you can get in touch with directly.
Particularly if you're local in the Virginia area, like I am, they're a good source of consultation, repairs and parts.
Two-Pivot or Six-Screw?
As you can see, Stratocaster bridge upgrades can generally be broken down into two different categories:
- Two-pivot (American style)
- Six-screw (Vintage style)
The decision about which is better isn't always an objective one. Some people prefer the two-pivot system because they say it's easier to keep in tune. However, my experience is that tuning trouble is more often due to the fact that most cheap Stratocasters come with a cheap Vintage-style bridge that doesn't stay in tune.
The American-style bridges are generally found on only the newer American-series Strats which, predictably, stay in tune better than the cheaper guitars.
If you upgrade with a decent Vintage-style bridge, those should stay in tune just as well.
As a consequence, I wouldn't say there's a major quality difference between the two. Again, it's a matter of how solid the bridge is and how well it's built. If you spend more than $70 on this particular part, chances are you're upgrading value regardless of the American or Vintage distinction.
Concluding
Cheap and mid-range Stratocasters are great candidates for mods and upgrades. If you know what you're doing, you can take a cheaper guitar and give it a huge bump in functionality and longevity. Pickups are the most obvious starting point for that type of project, but a good bridge swap is the next logical step.
I think a lot of people avoid switching out bridges because they're concerned about compatibility and fitting.
While that is something you need to pay close attention to, careful measuring and research can go a long way and should be done in all instances of modding.
Here's how I summarize:
- Upgrade six-screw to six-screw
- Upgrade two-point to two-point
- Make sure string spacing measurements match existing guitar and new bridge
- Make sure screw mount measurements match existing guitar and new bridge
I would also recommend reading Matt Wilder's helpful comment below, which I've already cited several times and have used to improve this article.
Questions about compatibility or selection?
If you have questions about that, drop them in the comments section below. I know the guys at Callaham and can check on this kind of stuff pretty quickly, or at least point you in the right direction.
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Written by Bobby on Electrics and Roundups
Written by Bobby on Pickups and Upgrades
I recently purchase a MIK Fender Squier contemporary strat with a broken tremolo block (cracked). I was going to upgrade the bridge and would like to know will a MIM Fender standard strat bridge would be a good fit/upgrade?
Is it like this one? https://reverb.com/p/squier-ii-contemporary-stratocaster-hss-1988-1992
Yes, a MIK Fender Squier II contemporary (1988-1992, possibly a 1984 according to serial # E980865)
You should be fine with that. I’d bet the Callaham version would be a good fit as well: https://www.callahamguitars.com/strat_bridge_mexican_catalog.htm
Can you upgrade a two point to a top of the line vintage six point without major issues? thanks
I wouldn’t do this because you’d essentially have two large holes – from the two-point bridge – which would be too big for screws to fit into that spot. You might get four screws in between them, but that’s not ideal.
Hi, I just bought a fender body, mim classic series, which Bridge setup would be best for that unit? Regards, Greg Andrews
I improved the tuning stability on my strat by adding rubber pads (all I had) under the back of the block saddles, as the intonation screws are sloppy. Major difference. I now intend to fit a 2mm block of luthiers maple veneer instead, and also a hard brass inertia block, should improve resonance too. All very cheap and effective, am I the first? Doesn’t really need any kind of precision engineering.
Hey, thanks for sharing this! Sounds a great mod/hack. It’s the first I’m hearing of it.
Does someone make a 2 1/6″ (52mm) mount 6 saddle bridge & block with a 2 7/32″ (57mm) string spacing?
The B and high E strings on my ’98 squire Strat barely go over the middle and neck pickup poles at all because of the narrow string spacing. There’s plenty of room on the neck for the high E to move out a bit (I replaced the stock neck with a custom Warmoth), but I can’t seem to find a bridge/block with this configuration.
Thanks!
Hi! I have a MIM Fender Classic 50’s with a vintage two point synchronized tremolo… Is it compatible with a big block “six points”? Thanks for the help! Alan
Alan – I typically don’t recommend going from two-point to six-screw Strat bridges. You’ll have to bore additional holes in the body, and the two existing points are likely too big for the screws. I’d recommend going from the two-point trem to another two-point trem. Typically, the two-point variation is considered the more modern of the two options.
Thanks… the option for change is because the “response from bends” floats the bridge and it’s more difficult hold the notes … do you reccomend increase the number of springs?
Many thanks in advance.
Alan
Is it a tension issue? More springs would only tighten up the tremolo response. If so, I’d at least try that before doing a whole bridge swap.
No, only the the bridge oscillates a lot (floats) during the bend note, for example, in 1 1/2 step bend. I just want the bridge to be “firmer”, even if the whammy bar is “heavier”. Thanks!
😉
Alan
I think I know what you mean. I’ve put Hipshot “Tremsetters” in several of my tremolo guitars just for this purpose. It makes the balanced point between string and spring tension “stiffer”. You can adjust how firmly it will force the tremolo back to that balance point, too. I started on fixed tails, and these things really made tremolo playing more enjoyable for me. I’m surprised they didn’t become much more popular.
Hello 🙂
I have a Vintera 60s Stratocaster Modified and I wanted to swap out the bridge for something better (because I found out that the bridge is made out of zinc and I broke a string two times at the bridge saddle while bending). I got the master part list from Fender and by the part number of the bridge assembly (0072253000) I found out that this is a 2 point tremolo bridge used in Classic Series strats with dimensions:
2-1/16″ string spacing and 2-7/32″ post spacing.
In the Fender shop it is listed as Deluxe Series 2-Point Tremolo Assembly. Do you have any recommendations what other (and possibly better) bridge will fit this guitar?
Best regards,
Adam
This would be my first go-to: https://imp.i114863.net/qnnAE5
It comes on the American series Strats.
Although they are weirdly quiet about dimensions. Even the Fender page looks a bit bare: https://shop.fender.com/en-US/parts/bridges/american-standard-stratocaster-tremolo-bridge-assembly-08-present/0075091049.html
But still, I think that should do the job. Let me know if that’s helpful or if I need to go a different direction with it.
Yup, American Series does seem nice (I like the block saddles more) I am just worried about the dimensions, because they are not listed. Weirdly bridge in my guitar has the dimensions listed:
https://shop.fender.com/en-US/parts/tremolo-arms/deluxe-series-2-point-tremolo-assembly/0992079000.html
I checked the American Series and American Deluxe and there are no dimensions on the Fender site…
Is there any way to know for sure if a bridge will fit?
Many thanks,
Adam
I just want to make sure that the bridge will indeed fit 🙂
That’s honestly weird that they don’t have the dimensions anymore. If I were a betting man – I’d be pretty comfortable saying the two-point trem will fit where a previous two-point trem had been installed. They haven’t really changed over the years. Unfortunately, there’s no way to verify the size for sure, short of contacting Fender’s tech team. Sorry I can’t be more certain on this one for you.
If I were you, I would just order it and keep the receipt.
I was thinking about that, but some of those bridges are hard to get in Europe and I don’t know if I will have any problems when I will import them from America. I will investigate a little bit more, but thanks for the help 🙂
You bet, Adam. Thanks for commenting.
Hi 🙂
I just bought my first Fender Strat (it only took 35 years!), but I don’t like how the screw-in tremolo arm is too tight. Maybe this is because it’s new, and the thread just needs to “become one” over time.
I am extremely wary about how far I have to screw it in to get the optimal effect, but what I would really like to do is have the tremolo arm loose and dangling, just like I had it on my Ernie Ball for 25 years.
Do you have any recommendations? I have endlessly searched, but cannot find anything on how to loosen the tremolo arm; all Google and YouTube results are for tightening.
Many thanks in advance.
RG – when you say “loose” are you referring to the arm itself and how it hangs from the bridge? Or are you talking in terms of how easily the bridge moves when you use the trem arm? Does that make sense?
If you’re talking about how the trem arm “hangs” in the bridge socket, that might actually have more to do with just wear and tear on the screw and the thread, like you mentioned.
Hi Bobby 🙂
Many thanks for getting back to me. Yes, it’s concerning the looseness of the tremolo arm itself and how it hangs. I know it’s personal preference where many people like to have it close to the strings (approx. 60° maybe?), but I like to use the arm and then let it drop to 90°, pointing to the ground, using gravity. So, if I were to move the guitar, the tremolo arm would be so loose that it would swing on its own accord.
When I first screwed the arm in a couple of days ago the thread was very tight, and I was very surprised by that. I have since wound it back and forwards a few times, and it has somewhat gradually eased, but I have again been very wary as to how many rotations it should be until it’s at its most optimal position (thread depth). It obviously becomes tighter the deeper it goes, which means to get it to how I want is going to take years for it to loosen while the thread is at a good enough depth for it to be solid during use.
I wonder how some people have been able to manage it? With my Ernie Ball, the arm slots in and is then held into position using an Allen key to tighten components around the arm. But my particular Strat tremolo arm is a screw-in, which obviously takes away any opportunity to choose a desired position and is therefore left to thread strength and ‘give’ over time only by winding around, back and forth, for probably years.
Surely, there must be a way 🤔
I hope all of this is making sense, haha!
Thanks once again
Dang, this is definitely a tough one. I would think it’s possible to “wear out” the threads quickly, but any metal sander I’d worry would be too disruptive and could cause the arm to fall out. To be honest, I think your best bet would be to test drive a few different brands of Strat tremolo arms (Squier, Wilkinson, etc.). Amazon has a bunch: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=strat+tremolo+arm&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Sorry that’s not an easy or free answer, but that’s what I would do. Sounds like you just got unlucky with a weirdly tight trem arm and thread.
For anyone that comes across this, I just want to say that there is quite a bit of misleading, if not downright wrong, information floating around in the comments and even the article itself, so do be careful with taking anything as gospel. I’ll try to correct some of the misnomers, and then give some tips on how and what can work when replacing Stratocaster bridges.
First of all, regarding vintage “style” 6 screw style bridges; there are in fact three common types, all with different string AND mount spacing. Just because a bridge may be labeled as vintage, or vintage style, does not guarantee cross compatibility.
1.) 2 7/32″ screw mounts, 2 7/32″ string spacing (original wide spacing as found on vintage Strats, also found on many Fender reissues of period specific vintage guitars)
2.) 2 7/32″ screw mounts, 2 1/16″ string spacing (as found on some early made in Mexico Fender Standard Stratocasters and others)
3.) 2 1/16″ screw mounts, 2 1/16″ string spacing (known as modern, or narrow spacing, and what is commonly found on MIM Standard Strats, Squier VM, and other examples. 2 1/16″ is also the same string spacing as found on MIA Fender Strats with two point trems, and just about any other Stratocaster that isn’t a vintage reissue of some type as made by Fender)
Now, regarding two post fulcrum trem units as found on Fender American Standard/Series/Deluxe/Pro and Squier Standard Stratocasters; the spacing of the fulcrum posts between the two (Fender and Squier) IS NOT the same. It can sometimes even be dubious as to whether MIM and MIA two post trems are really all that interchangeable depending on year and model. They may all share the same or similar string spacing, however the bridge post spacing can vary quiet significantly depending on year or model. Throw Floyd Rose, Ibanez, Kahler, Hipshot, Wilkinson and other makers of two point tremolos into the mix, and you sometimes have nearly as many different mount spacings, mount method, and style of fulcrum bolt as you do screws in a Strat pickguard.
The most important thing regarding the screw mount spacing, is that CLOSE ENOUGH is NOT good enough. You absolutely need to measure what you have vs. what you wish to replace it with. If you try to jam the screws of a 6 screw wide mount vintage bridge into the mounting holes for a narrow width vintage style bridge, or vice versa, you’ll simply create friction in the bridge system by screw binding and/or crack the finish and body. You will at very least end up with two very crooked outer screws. These screws are absolutely integral to the proper functioning of the bridge, as is the fact that they are adjusted evenly, and mounted squarely. If these screws end up bent, or installed at an angle, the bridge may mount crooked, and certainly friction is created when the trem is used; LOTS of friction. Most importantly, since friction is the enemy for bridge stability, the bridge will not stay in tune very well if at all, even under minimal use.
These same guidelines apply to mounting replacement bridges on guitars that are equipped with two point fulcrum tremolos. Furthermore, the advice to simply drill out the two outer screw holes on a 6 screw bridge to convert it for use with a two post bridge does not always work. The only time it will work is if your previous 6 screw bridge has the vintage correct 2 7/32″ mount spacing, as the center to center distance between trem posts on a US made Fender Standard Stratocaster is in fact 2 7/32″. Many are much more likely to have a Strat with a 2 1/16″ mount vintage style bridge. If these owners chose to follow this conversion advice blind, they’d end up with a new bridge that did not fit, and a guitar in need of repair. You simply need to measure, and know the measurements of the replacement part. There is no replacement or substitution to be allowed for these concepts when modifying guitars if you want to achieve ultimate success; measure, and research.
Now, as applied to string spacing, sometimes you can get away with using the wide vintage string spacing on a newer Strat that previously was equipped with a narrow spaced bridge. However you can also run into the problem that the high E string may sit too close to the fretboard edge to be played comfortably and accurately. Or, as is the case on some guitars, the string may overhang the neck completely. After some more careful measurements, if it seems like a wider bridge will work without the E overhanging the neck, it’s purely a judgement call as whether to make the change.
To get an idea if the high e string will overhang the neck, you can try this trick I use if you don’t have a machinist’s straight edge long enough for the task of measuring from the nut to the potential bridge saddle location. Using a high e string wrapped around it’s post, let the ball end remain loose. Make a temporary mark with a pencil or crayon in the bridge area where the wider vintage saddle’s center will be. I’m not going to do the math for you, but figure from the bridges centerline, measure over 1/2 of 2 7/32″, and make your mark. Seat the string in the nut, and pull tight. Bring the string to the point you marked, and if the lineup looks pretty good without the string overhanging the edge of the neck, give the bridge a shot if you want. If it does overhang, don’t fret (ahh, very punny). You can try this; loosen the neck at the bolts a little bit, tweak it over some with a good tug at the headstock, retighten the neck, and try the string test again. If still a no go, go with the more narrow bridge option.
Some like the high E being close to the edge as happens with vintage width bridges, and some simply do not. If you’ve never played one with this spacing, either find an example to try, or roll the dice and try it on your own guitar. The first option in certainly cheaper.
Now, a quick word about saddles and other singular bridge replacement parts. When replacing saddles, they too come in both vintage or narrow/modern widths. Note that in the case of Fender American Standard/Series Strats up until 2008, any replacements saddles require that they be of the offset adjusting screws variety. Additionally applied, if you want to change just the tremolo block (also known as an “inertia” block) on your bridge, they too come in a multitude of materials, sizes, mounting screw placement, trem hole placement, trem bar sizes they can accept, width, length, etc. Just measure your current one, do your research, and find one that will fit as compared to your measurements. Any reputable replacement unit for anything concerning the bridge should have a good set of measurements or compatible guitars from which to judge if it will work for your guitar. If measurements/compatibilities aren’t posted or available, walk. Keep looking until you find one that will fit and work for you AND your guitar. This really applies to any guitar part in general, not solely the domain of bridges.
The most important aspect of all though, and I can’t stress this enough, is to MEASURE, MEASURE, MEASURE!! Then when you’re done with that, RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH! Measure or find out the dimensions of the parts you want to replace, then find suitable fitting replacements, or be prepared to do the work and modification competently to make the replacements fit.
Basically, your goal is to find a bridge that corresponds to the measurements of your guitar, or commit to plugging the previous holes and accurately and squarely drilling new ones to match your new bridge. That certainly gets into the realm of more than a simple replacement and upgrade, so we can save the specifics for another day. However, if you’re not comfortable enough in finding suitable replacements parts that are drop-in and fit without modification, you probably aren’t going to be comfortable enough in the proper techniques for plugging, drilling, and modifying your guitar, either, when you inevitably receive a part that does not fit because you didn’t do your due diligence. If you find this to be the case, either it’s time to take your guitar to a competent luthier, or research, practice and learn enough until you are confident to take on more extensive modifications. I know this sounds silly, but taking accurate measurements even requires proper tools and technique, and then learning how to do it correctly with as much precision as required.
Simply being close on a measurement, then jamming parts in place is NOT the way to go. If you want to upgrade a Stratocaster and have it turn out better than before, nothing defeats this goal more so than to bodge the installation of the upgraded parts.
I very much suggest amending the article after some more research, then republishing with the correct information, and I sincerely hope some of my information and insight was helpful.
Matt “Condor” Wilder
Matt – I sincerely appreciate your thoughtful contribution to this article.
After reading through what you said, I went ahead and amended several parts of my article to reflect what you mentioned, specifically about sizing variations in the six-screw bridges, and the potential issues with modding from a six-screw to a two-point pivot.
I’ve also removed/adjusted language that I think was overly optimistic about the odds of having compatibility issues.
I agree that I wasn’t clear enough about the potential problems that could crop up.
Again, I genuinely appreciate you pointing this out. If you have the time, check back and let me know if you have any follow up thoughts. All the best.
So I’ve got a new MIM Player Strat. I was excited by the new two-point bridge 2018-present; thinking that with a tusk nut, I wouldn’t have tuning issues. That’s unfortunately not the case; at least all the strings go out of tune in unison, but I think it’s time to upgrade regardless. I am worried that I’m just not wrapping my strings properly for a tremolo, & that’s why its slipping. I plan on getting locking tuners, but they don’t really help with trem stability do they? I’ve only recently begun soloing after many years of playing guitar, so I’m advancing quickly & I had no idea how fun a tremolo bridge is; I think you would consider me a heavy player since I’m using it to compose melody fairly regularly. I’m not doing a ton of dive-bombing, but it happens from time to time. So do I need to get a Floyd Rose & skip these suggestions? I’m confused over two-point & synchronized tremolo’s, but since I’m only going to do this once, I won’t mind dropping a few hundred & would like something really good. I got my new Strat for only $550, & that is after tax & shipping, so I can spend a little more than I normally would. Also… is there a type of tremolo that allows me to get more action out of a single string I’m playing, rather than affecting all the strings? I’d like to just upgrade to the American Fender trem, but I’m worried I need something more? Great article, & reader engagement. You’re awesome for all that. Thank You!!!
Hey Jeigh – if you’re really into using the trem, I’d go with a Floyd Rose setup, which will also have the locking tuners. That secures your pitch at both ends and makes it really easy to make small adjustments. IF you have it setup right, which most guitar shops could help you do, it’s the best way to use tremolo.
With a regular Strat trem and bridge, I’ve found that aggressive trem use causes tuning issues no matter how good a job you do of setting up and wrapping the strings. Although, the more string you wrap, the more stable it should be (I used to always make the mistake of wrapping too little string and losing tuning stability).
Just my thoughts/experience, but I’d go with the Floyd setup if possible.
Thanks for your reply, & especially for confirming what I was beginning to suspect. I’m really enjoying the slide & steel guitar fakery I’m able to pull of with the “tremolo”, & I hadn’t really listened to Jeff Beck until I began being referred to his playing. Wow. I always thought he was a hyper-aggressive style player, but nope; unbelievable finesse & technique that I’m already copying/incorporating into my playing.
I guess I am wrapping the posts correctly; I was worried about getting the additional wraps to lock-in the first thread of the string, so I’m probably over-wrapping if anything haha. The pitch of my strings is often raised instead of lowered by heavy trem use & that I just don’t understand? Now I guess the question is which Floyd Rose to get? I’ve gotten pretty good at doing my own guitar tech, & have some fine-carpentry skills as well. I know that tremolo’s are as complicated as it gets, but it’s where I’ve worked my way up to, so I’ll probably at least try to do the installation myself. If I fail, I’ll pass it off to my guitar shop, but with little work in the industry right now (I’m a mixing engineer) & the understandably high cost of luthier work here in NYC, I’ve found myself learning A LOT about guitar tech this year! I’ve saved hundred tho, as I had three guitars that needed tune-ups, that I managed myself. Thanks again; it’s really nice to get feedback from someone you can tell knows what they’re talking about. You’ve probably saved me some money as well, but more importantly, I won’t be wasting time messing around with tremolo units that wouldn’t have worked for me. So very much appreciated!
Hmmm… just realized that a F.R. is going to take a little routing likely? Maybe I will have a shop at the very least do the rout. I’m sure they have a more appropriate router for that job anyway. 😉
Yeah that might be the case, depending on the Strat. Which Strat do you have? (sorry if you already mentioned it)
Jeigh, glad this was helpful for you. The Floyds are pretty consistent. Keep in mind there are knock-offs and then the Edge Zero system by Ibanez.
I think the model you would want is the Floyd R3, which is the one Fender uses on their “Floyd Strat” here: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/StratPFHSSMPWT–fender-player-series-stratocaster-hss-with-floyd-rose-polar-white-with-maple-fingerboard
Anyways, if you have any additional questions, let me know.
I somehow missed those last two comments, but since our first discussion I have done an immense amount of research and I believe I’m going to go with a Vega-trem. They’re getting rave reviews & are fairly easy to install with zero routing. I like theyre system. My locking tuners showed up today as well, but while I have the strings off I’m I’m installing a kill switch (arcade button style), so I cant say if its helped, but Ive spent a lot of time playing since my first post, & Ive gotten to where I dont even notice the bar in my hand, & am having no problem with tricky hybrid picking even. It feels so natural, I don’t know why I didn’t play tremolo earlier? And I never grab the bar, it just rests against my palm the whole time, but I guess Id have to grab it if Im pulling back. So now that Im positive this is the direction I want to go oh, I definitely decided I need a much more Musical tremolo besides this stock MIM player series 2 point floating trem.
That’s awesome! Very good to hear. I like the arcade button-style kill-switch idea.
Hi, I only use my trem for subtle Bigsby-style shimmer. I have a 335 with a Bigsby and a Duesenberg–which has by far the best Bigsby style trem on the planet. I can’t use the trem on my Strat because there is give or leeway in the bar–it doesn’t fit tight enough to respond immediately to a light touch. Replacement recommendation?
Just to clarify – are you saying you have a Stratocaster WITH a Bigsby currently on it? If so, send a pic of how it’s configured. You can use the![]()
tag to drop it directly in the comments section.
Hello, I have a Squier Standard Stratocaster with the 2 point bridge, would the American series 2 point work in my case? Would there be any differences in post width?
Hey, James – the two-point bridge should work fine as a straight swap. It can’t hurt to keep your receipt, but those post widths should all be the same.
Hi, thank you for the article. It is great. Btw, I have question: do you have opinion about Cort’s G260 CS (new for 2019) stock bridges (two point tremolo with steel saddles)?
https://m.thomann.de/gb/cort_g260cs_olympic_white.htm
I am thinking of buying the guitar but I also plan to replace the bridge if it is not good. Do you know if it will directly fit with Fender American two point tremolo or Wilkinson’s? Thanks
Joan – I can’t be totally sure because I’m not seeing sizing on these guitars (space between both anchor points), but my guess is that most bridges that you’d get for a Fender Strat will also work with that Cort. Sorry I can’t be more specific.
That’s ok..U are already so helpful by replying..Thanks..If you don’t mind, I will post the size here and ask again when I got back home and buy the guitar. Thank you again.
No problem, Joan. Let me know.
Hi Bobby,
Last week I swap the bridge of my Fender Player Strat with an american deluxe one. Since I saw a video on youtube and the reviewer said that the bridge of the american standard and the Player Series were the same I took the risk. They’re not the same, they are different measure for some MMs, it look like the deluxe bridge goes a little bit foward and it gets very close to the pickguard.
It’s working, I had to raise the bridge to deal with that issue. Overall great stability and some how the overall tone improved with this change.
I would definitely be surprised if the American Deluxe bridge and Player series are the same. They shouldn’t be. That’s not to say the AD can’t benefit from an upgrade, but the existing hardware should be nicer than the player series.
Wouldn’t the year models matter in this case? Or in all cases since they’ve changed the trems on different year models? I’m going to assume that the two-point American trem will be an exact fit with the new two point players… right? I’ll just start my own feed…
That’s correct. The biggest distinction is between the two-point and the six-screw versions. Year-to-year (all years after moving to the two point), should be the same measurements, or at least extremely close with no need for heavy modding.
Hi! I got a Fender American deluxe Stratocaster. Is it easy to swap to a good quality vintage trem that can have ashtrey on it?
Hey Tom – once the bridge is on, my understanding of that ashtray piece is that it should just fit right on top, so I think you should be fine. Maybe buy the bridge and the ashtray as a pair? Let me know how it goes.
I have a Fender MIM Standard Stratocaster hss with a 6 screw vitage trem. I want to switch it to a black hardtail bridge with absolutely minimum modification. Suggestions??
Dang, man. Hard to do without a good bit of cutting. Any reason you don’t just leave off the trem arm?
You can always just “deck” your bridge. Screw those two large screws holding the bridge to the body in all the way and that will prevent your bridge from moving and will render it a hardtail bridge. As for the color you’ll just have to purchase some black hardware to go on there. You don’t want to go drilling into the wood just to change the bridge that’s way too extra.
Hey I bought a player series (mexican strat) with the two pivot trem. Do you know if the deluxe strat bridge will just drop in
I assume you’re talking about this one? https://www.amazon.com/Fender-American-Stratocaster-86-Present-Electric/dp/B00LJY31A2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=deluxe+stratocaster+bridge&qid=1577472688&sr=8-3
If so, then yeah it should.
I have an 80s mij strat body. Im trying to find a replacement bridge besides the Kahler or shaler. Its a two point wide pivot point. I don’t want a Floyd type but prefer a simpler tremolo bridge. Can you help?
Hey David – I would suspect the American Deluxe 86 would be your best option: https://www.amazon.com/Fender-American-Stratocaster-86-Present-Electric/dp/B00LJY31A2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=fender+strat+modern+bridge&qid=1566701659&s=amazon-devices&sr=8-4
What about that same strat but with something that looks vintage but is good? The Kahler that came with that strat looked way too modern for a classic guitar.
Hi I have a eric clapten signature series strat the trem is a syncronised system has noisless pickups for a nice guitar the trem lets it down wammy bar is very sloppy etc what is a good trem upgrage
Hey Den – what do you mean the whammy bar is “sloppy?” If you have an Eric Clapton signature Strat, I’d be hesitant to recommend much in the way of modding or parts swapping. Everything on there should be pretty solid.
Thanx for replying so quick bro i mean the wammy bar winds in on a thred and to make it firm they supplyed a spring im no guitar tec but a bit budget for the money i paid for it also winding it on and off is marking me gat thanks for your help bobby
Den – if you just want to replace the entire thing, I’d probably recommend the ’62 reissue from Fender or the Callaham Vintage bridge. I assume this is the 6-screw setup?
Hi. I have a Squier Standard Strat exactly like the one you linked to above and I want to change the bridge (among other parts) from chrome to black.
These are the measurements I got and they don’t match anything I’ve seen so I’m thinking my measurements are wrong.
2 -7/16. Post Spacing (61.91mm)
2-1/16. Strings (52mm) 13mm not 10.5?
Can you please give me the correct measurements so that I can finally find the right replacement?
Thank you
ToniAnn
Hey ToniAnn – I honestly wouldn’t worry too much about getting the exact sizing right. If you want to avoid the heavy modding, just make sure it’s the vintage-style six-screw bring (not the modern one). Something like this should fit fine: https://www.amazon.com/Seismic-Audio-Electric-Guitar-SAGA24/dp/B0191YD2BE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550583747&sr=8-2&keywords=black+stratocaster+bridge
Hope this helps! Let me know if you have additional questions.
Hi, thanks or the great website 🙂 Lots o good ino here. My question is: which bridge should be fine for MIM 50’s strat, the most important thing to me is whammy bar that doesn’t wiggle inside the hole, and it should be the pop-in. I’d like to use the arm pretty much. Cheers !
Hey there, thanks much. I would go with the Standard trem bridge: https://shop.fender.com/en-US/parts/bridges/american-standard-stratocaster-tremolo-bridge-assembly-08-present/0075091049.html
thanks but, I think it doesn’t have pop-in arm..
So are you talking about a bridge like this? https://reverb.com/item/1392854-new-fender-mim-classic-series-50s-stratocaster-electric-guitar-daphne-blue
Yep, that’s exactly my guitar. And I don’t like the bridge, because the tremolo arm wiggles whatever I put inside the hole (spring, ball, teflon tape around – which makes it just very stiff etc..)
I’d like lose tremolo arm, but with smooth action, no wiggling..
Does it have the block in it, like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Fender-Mexico-Vintage-Assemblies-005-4619-000/dp/B004P4MLMW/ref=asc_df_B004P4MLMW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312165945081&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10814163038504955595&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008306&hvtargid=pla-570189866101&psc=1
yes, the very same block
Honestly man, as long as it’s the vintage six screw bridge. You should be fine. In terms of it fitting. Maybe something from Wilkinson? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B2PJ6SV/ref=dp_cerb_2
Hi there,
I got a squire strat classic vibe and would like to upgrade the bridge.
Ive been reading abt string spacing and still doesnt fully understand the theory. All i know is, if the spacing is not the same as my stock bridge, drilling is needed.
Any suggestions on what would be a perfect fit for a squire cv strat?
Thanks
First, I wouldn’t assume that the string spacing will require you to drill. What’s your source on that?
The issue is whether you’re swapping a vintage or modern style bridge. For the classic vibe, I’d go with a vintage (6-screw) bridge from Gotoh or Hipshot. https://www.guitarchalk.com/gear/stratocaster-bridges/
As far as dimension issues, as long as the six screws line up, string spacing should be fairly close as well.
Does this answer your question? Let me know.
Hi Bobby,
Thanks for the reply.
Apologies, I meant mounting spacing. My Squire is of 52mm. Can a 54-56mm mount spacing fit right in? Or drilling cant be avoided?
I don’t want to give you bad advice, but personally I’d be willing to try a 54-56mm mount spacing in a 52mm guitar. My bet is it would still fit. Might just be a bit tight.
Thank you man.
Ill let you when its done.
I talked to guys at Fender and at Callahan about upgrading the bridge of my Affinity Strat (has an emotional value to me, I’m not pretending it will end up like my Elite Strat) and they said the 62 trem bridge nor the ones from Callaham will not fit the thin body of my strat. How can I go about this?
So I take it your Strat’s body is thinner than most Squier or Fender variations? Exactly how thin is the body? Also, what kind of bridge is in there now? Modern or vintage?
It has a regular Squier Affinity body (i think 1 1/2 thick) and a stock bridge.
Have you tried just a traditional Stratocaster bridge, like the ones on the Standard Strats? I would think that would fit.
I want to change my 2017 mim Strat bridge from stock to vintage standard made for mim models I think their different are they I herd the stock are zinc and are the base plates different too ? Help
Hey Chas – if they’re both vintage-style Strat bridges (the six-screw versions) than you should be fine. Are you just uncertain about the compatibility of the new bridge?
I have a new MIM body routed for a trem, with six bridge screw holes spanning 2-1/16″. I want vintage spaced strings (2-7/32″ or 2-3/16″ depending on your interpretation). I’ve seen the Floyd Rose Rail Tail (a dive-only trem) allows this “conversion”. Is there anything else, especially in the floatable category? I’m not planning on using it for anything more than gentle vibrato.
To be honest, I don’t know.
If the Floyd lets you set it up that way, I’d say that’s your best bet, unless you just don’t like the Floyd setup/look. Since you’re wanting to keep it in the floatable category, I’d try the Floyd Rose setup and see how the conversion goes.
Sorry I can’t be more helpful here.
I’m trying to get a definite answer as to whether or not a Fender 62 reissue bridge can be installed on my MIM Strat before I make a purchase. My MIM is a 2013 HSS. I already switched out the stock tuning machines with Fender individual locking heads. I also replaced all the pickups with SSS Fat-50s. I still feel like something’s missing. The tone isn’t quite right and it still has trouble staying in tune, mostly the D, G, B strings. I don’t use the tremelo much at all. If I do, it’s strictly for short bends. I’m also a believer in having a good wrap of string around the peg, even though it’s contrary to some regarding the locking heads. I’m really interested in your opinion.
Thanks,
TJ
Hey Thomas – I think a new bridge would definitely help with these issues.
Could you send me a picture of the existing bridge on your MIM Strat? If it’s a six screw setup, I think you’d be fine to go with the ’62 Reissue.
If you want to post the photo here, just use an HTML markup with the images URL.
Nice write up Bobby. Been looking at the upgraded Standard American bridge for a while, but I might just stick with the vintage after all, seeing as there is a better quality part in that style.
Mine is an ‘86 MIJ Fender Strat. I upgraded the electrical to modern American components and put in some budget but quite decent GFS pickups, as well as a lot of the cosmetic parts. It already has really good Gotoh tuners, so the bridge and saddles are a great candidate for the next area of attention. Cheers for the detailed reference.
And to clarify, I will stick with a vintage style bridge as there is a better quality option for that AS WELL as the modern Standard style, not that the vintage style is the better option. Words are difficult write to clearly :-/
Hey thanks for commenting, Adam. The bridge is a surprisingly easy upgrade. Personally I’d go with the ‘62, especially if it’s already the six-screw design.