6 Best Bass Amp Heads (under $1000 dollars)

First, to be sure we're all on the same page: A bass amp head is not the same as a bass combo amplifier. Combo amps have a speaker, power amp and preamp built in, while an amp head has only a preamp and power amp, which must be paired with a separate speaker cab. I'm assuming that you either have access to, or plan to buy, a bass speaker cab.

1. Orange OB1-500

While the front panel might look a little cryptic at first, it's fairly easy to decipher the unique labeling. Per the user manual, the OB1-500 bass amp head has a three-band EQ (bass, mid and treble) and a footswitchable blend and gain control.

An active/passive input switch is also included. The user manual quickly deciphers the front panel:

Matching with a speaker cab

The wattage and impedance for the OB1 measures the same as Fender's Rumble 500 amp head.

• 500 watts
• 8Ω
  

With that in mind, here are a few cabs that I would recommend.

• Orange OBC 212
• Fender Rumble 115
• Orange OBC 410
• Gallien-Kruger NEO 212

All these speakers are 8 ohms, meaning you could double any one of them (hook one into each speaker output) for a 4Ω load. Moreover, the wattage of each one meets or exceeds 500W.

Back panel features

On some versions of the Tone Hammer, you'll see a -10db button, which is essentially an active/passive switch. Press it in for active pickups or leave it as-is for regular, passive pickups. That version of the Tone Hammer 500 is pictured below.

Compatible speaker cabs

Since our ohm load and wattage have both changed, I'll go through a new run of speaker cabs that would be compatible with this amplifier. First, let's review what the user manual has to say about the speaker inputs:

So, we're looking for speaker cabs that meet the following guidelines:

• 16Ω, 8Ω or 4Ω
• At least 350W (or greater) power handling

The following cabs would all suffice:

1. Siesmic Audio 46G

• Impedance: 8Ω
• Power: 500 watts
• Headroom 150 watts

2. Korg RMMAG 414T 4x10 Cab

• Impedance: 4Ω
• Power: 450 watts
• Headroom 100 watts

3. Ampeg Pro Neo Series Bass Speaker Cab

• Impedance: 8Ω
• Power: 550 watts
• Headroom 200 watts

4. Orange OBC115 Bass Cab

• Impedance: 8Ω
• Power: 400 watts
• Headroom 50 watts

PF-350 back panel features

4. Hartke TX300 Bass Head

At 300W, the TX300 is a fairly loud bass head, making it a nice fit for outdoor performances or those who play in venues that call for more volume. Front panel features include the following EQ options:

1. Bass
2. Shape
3. Mid
4. Treble

Aux and headphone inputs, along with an onboard compressor are also worth noting. Gain controls volume at the preamp level while master controls volume at the power amp level.

Possible speaker cab pairings

At 300W and 8Ω impedance, the TX300 is slightly more limited in terms of speaker cabs. The tricks will be to stay above that 300W threshold. You can use the following graphic to match impedance levels for multiple cabs:

Notice none of the total impedance calculations exceed 8Ω. Hartke does have what they call the HyDrive bass cab series, some of which (not all) are compatible with the TX300. We'll start there.

1. Hartke HyDrive 410

• Impedance: 8Ω
• Power: 1000 watts
• Headroom 400 watts

2. Gallien-Krueger Neo 412

• Impedance: 4Ω
• Power: 1200 watts
• Headroom 600 watts

3. Orange OBC410

• Impedance: 8Ω
• Power: 600 watts
• Headroom 0 watts

4. Markbass New York 122

• Impedance: 4Ω
• Power: 800 watts
• Headroom 200 watts

TX300 back panel

The back panel of the TX300 is a little different than what you might be used to.

First, you have two speaker outputs, where one is a regular 1/4" and the other is a speaker jack. They're still parallel (you can use either one) but it's recommended you use the speaker jack whenever possible.

To the left, you have three additional jacks:

1. Preamp out
2. Power amp in
3. Direct out

The preamp out feeds in post preamp, but allows you to bypass the power amplifier portion of the TX300, in the event you'd prefer to use an external power amp, perhaps via a PA system. The "power amp in" jack is exactly the opposite, as it allows you to bypass the TX300's preamp, in favor of using an external preamp. The "direct out" allows you to go straight into a mixing console, as you might expect.

I'll let you read about the TC Electronic Tone Print feature separately, since it's a fairly involved matter, all it's own. To summarize:

If you're the type of bass player who is into banking effects, it'll be something you'll use a lot. Those who like a simple setup without a lot of fuss to go into their EQ probably won't use it nearly as much. The rest of the front panel is similar to the others we've looked at, though TC Electronic does add a bass tuner, which gives this amp head a major bump, in my opinion.

Other perks on the front panel are a gain knob, a mute switch and dual mid controls.

The back panel

The back panel has a lot of goodies worth mentioning as well, including a class two speaker out, the USB connection for TonePrint effects, an AUX in jack, a balanced headphone jack and a balanced XLR output. There's also a pre/post EQ switch, which allows you to send the signal via the balanced XLR out, either before or after the preamp mix.

For under $500, this bass head is surprisingly feature-rich. If you do decide to use the TonePrint feature for effects, here are a few of the "legend" bass tones that you can download and use.

Combining all of these features and available tone profiles gives you one of the more versatile and dynamic bass heads on this list. As I alluded to previously, it's best suited for bass players who like to experiment with a lot of different tones, perhaps a session bassist who has clients in a number of different genres.

Getting creative with the BH550 is easier than most other small bass heads. An effects loop would be a nice touch, but the BH550 still makes a case to be the best small bass head for players who utilize effects.

Matching bass amp to cabinet

The RS and K cab series from TC Electronic are the recommended external speakers for the BH550. I'll defer to TC Electronic's simple recommendations on this one. Basically, any two from the RS or K series.

You can use other cabs with similar specs, just make sure to double check the ohm load and total wattage. The BH550 is named according to a total output of 550W, so keep that in mind when cab shopping, if you deviate from the TC Electronic in-house recommendations.

What matters when you're buying a bass amp head?

The options you have with bass amps are a little simpler than guitar amps. For instance, you usually don't need more than one channel and onboard effects are often omitted. The perks you do want come fairly standard. Here are the ones to look for:

• Active and passive input
• On-board compression
• Headphone jack
• Balanced XLR output
• Gain control

Specs to keep an eye on would include the following:

• Wattage
• Ohm measurement (most are 8 or 4 ohms, which needs to coordinate with your speaker cab)
• Number of speaker outs (usually one or two)
• Line out (if you need to go straight to a mixer or PA system)
  

What's the difference between an active and passive input?

Some bass amps will have two inputs, labeled passive and active. Others will have a switch, that allows you to just switch between the two on the same input. Here's what the "active" and "passive" labels mean in this context:

1. Active: Typically drops the signal strength, perhaps by -10db or so, to avoid clipping.
2. Passive: Leaves the signal's output as-is for low to medium output bass guitars

All this means is that the active input (or switch) is giving you a cushion for using an active pickup, which might have a stronger output. These are, predictably, called "active pickups." Active pickups are typically powered by a battery of some sort, as the following diagram shows:

Refresh my memory on a bass amp head setup

As I mentioned earlier, a bass amp head is just a preamp and power amp without a speaker. Your speaker cab will need to be added to your bass head before you can use it. Thus, a small bass head rig will have the following components:

1. Bass guitar
2. Bass amp head
3. Bass speaker cab
4. Processors (optional)

The signal chain will look something like this:

Once the cab and amp head are paired, the two function as a single unit, just like a bass combo amplifier would. Pedals or effects processors are, of course, optional.

How do I know my cab will match my bass amp?

You're either buying an amp to fit a cab, or you're going to follow your amp purchase with a new cab purchase. Either way, the two have to play nice. How can you be sure they will?

We mentioned earlier that one of the specs you'll want to keep an eye on is ohms (indicated by this symbol Ω), which are used to measure impedance. Typically a bass cabinet will be one of the following:

• 4 ohmns
• 8 ohmns

Now, here's what you'll need to figure out:

1. How many watts of power will my amp put out in different impedance modes?
   
2. Will the cab can handle the wattage load coming from the amplifier for the given impedance rating?

To make sure we iron these two things out, we can follow this step-by-step process:

1. Note your amp's output for the following ohm loads (or whichever ohm loads are supported by the amp): 4, 8 and 16 ohms
2. Locate the speaker cabs recommended ohm load (this is usually on the back input plate)
3. If you can't find this information on the amp or the cab itself, check the manufacturer's website and documentation for each product.
4. Note that it's always a safe bet to use a speaker cab with a wattage rating 2x that of your amp's top wattage rating for the given ohm load. This is also called "headroom."
   
5. For example, a 100 watt amp would pair safely with a 200 watt speaker cab.
6. You can use a cab that matches the wattage of your amp, though you'll need to avoid turning the amp up too high (probably not past six or seven) and avoid effects that increase decibels, like booster pedals.
7. In short, match the ohm load, then go for a cab with higher wattage.
   

Ohm loads, multiple cabs and the math of parallel wiring

If you have a bass amp head that supports 16 and 8 ohm loads, it's best to start with a 16 ohm speaker, because it actually gives you room to add more cabs. It sounds weird, but adding two 16 ohm cabs actually cuts your ohm load in half, dropping it down to eight.

The same would apply for an amp that can handle an 8 or 4 ohm load. In that situation, you'd want to target an 8 ohm cab, since it would theoretically allow you to expand your bass rig to include a second cab down the road.

If you don't want the extra cab, the lower ohm rating (4 in that case) would be fine. It's just something that, along with the wattage, should be considered as you shop.

What if I need to go straight to a PA system?

In any instance where you might need to run your bass straight into a PA system, the first thing you need to is understand the difference between a line out and speaker out jack.

1. Line out
2. Speaker out

A speaker out sends a "speaker level" amplified signal, while a line out sends a "line level" signal. This means the line out essentially bypasses the power amp, leaving your mixer and PA system to amplify the bass signal.

So, if you need a bass head to accommodate, you'll need to make sure that the "line out" feature is included. Speaker outs, which are always included in a standalone bass head, are not going to work, as they will overload the mixer and cause your channel to clip.

Thoughts or questions?

Have thoughts or questions about the gear in this article? Did I forget something you want to bring to my attention? Feel free to leave a comment and I'll check it out. Thanks for reading.